The final step in construction was to create the drawers. For this I utilized solid walnut faces veneered with quilted sapele and soft maple drawer sides. I machine cut the dovetails as I wanted to speed along the project and simply did not have the time to handcut all 6 drawers. I made sure to keep the veneer as close to matched as possible between drawer parts so that it appeared to be one continuous piece of wood.
I cut the drawer fronts to match the opening precisely and used veneers as shims to maintain exact spacing. I then cut the rest of the drawers and dovetailed them together. I routed grooves in the side of the drawers to accept a solid walnut piece. On the solid walnut piece I routed a groove that would accept a metal rod to act as a drawer stop. I had to manufacture these in the shop using metal rods and tapping it to fit a brass knurled knob I found at the hardware store. To fit the drawers in the cabinet, I used my favorite method of using double stick carpet tape on the outside of the slide. When the drawer is in the correct position, I simply apply pressure and the tape holds the drawer in place. Because the cabinet already was finished with danish oil and shellac, I used gorilla glue to glue the drawer slides and pinned with a pin nailer.
I then drilled the holes for the knob pulls. Because I didn’t want to see the screw on the inside, I used hanger bolts with loctite to secure the threads and then screwed in the pulls. The walnut should have no problem with pullout. I mounted the top with SOSS hinges so that they would be hidden when the box was closed. I used one door stop to hold the top open and prevent breaking the hinges. I then glued in the beveled edge mirror with mirror mastic.